The worldwide accepted GOTS seal of quality ensures complete control at all stages of production.

The Global Organic Textile Standard is the most important textile processing standard for organic fibres worldwide, including ecological and social criteria, confirmed by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain.

The aim of the standard is to define worldwide acclaimed requirements that guarantee organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer. Textile processors and manufacturers are legitimated to export their organic fabrics and garments with one certification accepted in all major markets. The consensus of the International Working Group was that a clear and unambiguous understanding of the content required that the Global Standard itself focuses on compulsory criteria only.

The standard covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70% certified organic natural fibres. The final products may include, but are not limited to fibre products, yarns, fabrics, clothes and home textiles. The key criteria for fibre production can be identified as:

• Organic certification of fibres on basis of recognised international or national standards Certification of fibres from conversion period is possible if the applicable farming standard permits such certification
• A textile product carrying the GOTS label grade ‘organic’ must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres whereas a product with the label grade "made with organic" must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres Key criteria for processing and manufacturing include:
• At all stages through the processing organic fibre products must be separated from conventional fibre products and must to be clearly identified • All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes, auxiliaries and process chemicals) must be evaluated and meeting basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability/eliminability
• Prohibition of critical inputs such as toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, functional nano particles, genetically modified organisms (GMO) and their enzymes
• The use of synthetic sizing agents is restricted; knitting and weaving oils must not contain heavy metals
• Bleaches must be based on oxygen (no chlorine bleaching)
• Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited
• Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC are prohibited
• All operators must have an environmental policy including target goals and procedures to minimise waste and discharges
• Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludge. The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant.
• Technical quality parameters must be met (s.a. rubbing, perspiration, light and washing fastness and shrinkage values)
• Raw materials, intermediates, final textile products as well as accessories must meet stringent limits regarding unwanted residues
• Minimum social criteria based on the key norms of the International Labour Organisation (ILO) must be met by all processors

The ILO does not suggest a single right model of social protection in health for all countries. However, ILO has developed some guiding principles, which help to identify appropriate ways to meet the objectives mentioned. They include:

• Equality of treatment and equal access to health services, for example with regard to gender equality
• The principle of inclusiveness of the scheme refers to universality, human dignity, social justice and poverty reduction
• The solidarity principle. It applies first and foremost to financing techniques such as risk-pooling in social health insurance or taxation and ensures that the economic burden of disease is lessened Generally a company participating in the GOTS certification scheme must work in compliance with all criteria of the standard. GOTS relies on a dual system to check compliance with the relevant criteria consisting of on-site auditing and residue testing. Certification of the entire textile supply chain
• Fibre producers (farmers) must be certified according to a recognised international or national organic farming standard that is accepted in the country where the final product will be sold
• Certifiers of fibre producers must be internationally recognised. They also must be accredited to certify according to the applicable fibre standard
• Operators from post-harvest handling up to garment making and traders have to undergo an onsite annual inspection cycle and must hold a valid GOTS operational certificate applicable for the production / trade of the textiles to be certified
• Certifiers of processors, manufacturers and traders must be internationally accredited according to ISO 65 and must hold a ‘GOTS accreditation’ in accordance with the rules as defined in the ‘Approval Procedure and Requirements for Certification Bodies’
• Stringent orientation values for unwanted residues are defined in the standard
• Licensed operators must undergo residue testing according to a risk assessment of contamination
• Additional samples may be taken by auditors and sent for analysis to ISO 17025 accredited labs. Only textiles produced and certified according to the provisions of the standard can carry the GOTS label.

The standard provides for a subdivision into two label-grades:

• Label-grade 1: "organic" 95% certified organic fibres 5 % non-organic natural or synthetic fibres
• Label-grade 2: "made with X% organic" 70% certified organic fibres, 30 % non organic fibres, but a maximum of 10% synthetic fibres (up to 25% for socks, leggings and sportswear

The only differentiation for subdivision is the minimum percentage of "organic" material in the final product. The remaining balance (up to 5% or 30% respectively) may be composed of non-organic fibres, including defined regenerated and synthetic fibres (25% at most for socks, leggings and sportswear and 10% for all other textile products). Blending conventional and organic fibres of the same type in the same product is not permitted. If raw fibres with the certified status 'organic - in conversion' are used instead of certified "organic" fibres, the corresponding label grades are named "organic - in conversion" respective "made with x% organic - in conversion materials".

The GOTS label bases on ecological and social aspects and moves beyond current law standards. Compliance with regulations is certified by independent institutes.

With textiles labeled by GOTS, you as a consumer can be sure to buy non-hazardous products in every way.

www.global-standard.org/the-standard/general-description.html